The decalogue of authentic Milanese risotto


We dedicate these lines in favor of the most authentic Milanese risotto. The tradition that runs through the veins of the Milanese.

What rice to use? For this recipe the Carnaroli is the prince rice. For some reasons: it has an elongated and larger grain than other varieties and is characterized by a very high percentage of starch (between 22-24 %, almost double the other types). It keeps the cooking better and, thanks to its release during the preparation phase, gives the dish a natural creaminess.
Do not wash the rice. risotto is not sushi. Washing rice is not only useless but also harmful, because you risk losing the starch and could become a sticky mush.
The first step for a perfect Milanese risotto is the treatment of the onion. Half of it is needed. It should be placed in a casserole with the oil. It should not be chopped but should be left to dry whole over very low heat for at least ten minutes.
Toast the rice or let it wither? The traditional recipe requires that the rice be dried in butter and marrow, but today we know that animal fats reach the point of smoke before vegetables, so in contemporary cooking the rice should be toasted in extra virgin olive oil. The exact cooking point is discovered to the touch, or visually when the grains are translucent.
Wet the rice with meat broth. According to some chefs, the technique of blending rice with white wine could be avoided. In any case, the rice should be soaked, with wine if you want to fade, and then move on to meat broth. Add the ladles of broth one after the other as soon as the poured broth evaporates.
Add the saffron powder after 3-4 minutes after the first ladle of broth has been added.
Cooking time. The cooking of Milanese rice lasts about 14 minutes. During all the cooking time, the broth must be flush with the rice: not too little, because it is difficult to mix, not too much because there is a risk of a boiled rice effect. There are several schools of thought. According to some chefs, rice should not be touched until it is cooked, according to others, it should be turned continuously and gently, caressed with a wooden spoon, to help release the starch on the surface of the grains.
Saffron pistils. They should be added when cooking is almost complete, before turning off the fire are also added to the pistils of saffron. In this way they will soften but not disappear.
Mantegnation. Once the heat is off, stir in the butter and cheese, which must be grated at the moment, with the grater. Then, apart from that, add the slices of marrow. They can be used either in the mantecatura or just inside the broth as a garnish.
The wave. A good Milanese risotto must be creamy but not liquid. What is called the wave effect.



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