Once Milan Fashion Week is over, we’ll pull the oars on the boat

Milan becomes a flower, an infinite garden to welcome the various characters, operators and VIPs, who attend this now customary event that involves the whole city … up to Linate

The stylistic choices that marked the 2018 edition of Milanese Fashion have caused a clear split between the conservatives of timeless elegance and the progressive visionaries. From the most “classic” to those who aimed for excess extravagance, the catwalks of this Fashion Week made a lot of noise.

Let’s start with Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director, who has shaken the souls of even his colleagues as well as fashion lovers, presenting the autumn-winter 18/19 collection with models that parade with their severed heads in their hands, set in an operating room. The meaning of this macabre representation was to make us reflect on the designer “who cuts, sews and reconstructs materials and fabrics to create a new personality and identity”. Giorgio Armani was so shocked that he declared “You can do what you want but, let me tell you, if I put a head on the platform, under an arm, cut off, we are at the limit and I’m not at this game, I’m getting out of this game. I don’t even want my parents to look at what others have done. If that’s what other people do, we’d better stay at home.

On the other hand, Giorgio Armani is a proponent of clean and uncontaminated elegance and, like the Commander of a ship, he continues to keep the helm straight and firm in his vision of femininity, femininity, serious lightness and sparkling sobriety. For the summer of 2019, the Armani woman is dressed in soft and delicate colours, silky pastels and metallic greys that give a particular imprint to the satin dresses and chiffon veils, transforming the classic wardrobe with new expressions given by the experimentation of new materials. Grey suits and blazers that move with the same lightness of water under the breeze. And while the endless applause is affecting the soul of Giorgio, the models and the operators, in Linate takes place the extraordinary Emporio Armani Boarding, the show which was attended by 2,300 people. “The airport is a place of great symbolic power: without barriers, it represents the opening to the outside, to the world,” explained the designer in a note. “I liked the idea of organizing the show in the same hangar on which, since 1996, the inscription Emporio Armani stands out, surmounted by the unmistakable logo of the eagle”.

Moschino’s woman is showy and eccentric but ultra chic and takes us back to a recent and happy past, to the years of experimentation, of ultra tailored prêt-a-porter and of spectacularity on the catwalk when the performances were closed with such spectacular clothes that they looked like costumes. Jeremy Scott is well aware of the origins of the maison and continues to pay homage to them with the irony that characterizes it. So much so as to enclose Gigi Hadid in a chrysalis of white veil followed by a starling of butterflies. Chic suits and hats with wide stretches strictly scribbled, brushstrokes of colors on trench coats, chemisers, jackets and skirts with bows and even on shoes and tights. So next spring will be waltzes of pastel shades, yellow, pink and blue with some touch of fuchsia, purple and red but in the color palette there is also the white, black. The evening of Moschino has tens of meters of light and fluttering fabrics, a gust of joie de vivre and exuberance.

Nothing is more current than the 60’s and this is confirmed by Miuccia Prada who, with her collection, brings back to the catwalk the cornerstones of the style that changed the way of conceiving clothing. Here are the mini-dresses, flared skirts and coats in fluorescent shades, short and double-breasted jackets, duffle coats, crew neck pullovers, The palette splashing with acid yellow, blue, candy pink and deep purple. Butterfly glasses, maxi headbands, pointed collars and porthole cuts on the back return.

Fendi dresses itself in contemporary style thanks to the interpretation of Karl Lagerfeld. Practicality is the spearhead of Fendi, but it must be combined with the essential romanticism. Leather jackets, trench coats, parkas and jackets cover double corsets that underline the waist. Leather dresses and skirts with embossed logos, dresses with overlapping bustiers, PVC overcoats with leather hems and stitching and pleated soleil skirts covered with transparent PVC overskirts, multi-pocket jackets and jackets, and very linear trouser suits with a slim silhouette. The colour palette also enhances this world of practical romance, with cognac and sage combined with white, burgundy and sand. For the evening, dresses in precious silks with floral motifs to be worn with sandals. On the catwalk for the first time, Double F bags with chain and Pekabook X-Lite.

The famous Made in Med Dolce & Gabbana fashion house has featured stars of the calibre of Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Eva Herzigova, the complete Rossellini family and the stars of Instagram such as Emily Ratajkowski, Sara Sampaio and Ashley Graham. A hymn to love, beauty and the lightness of the soul beyond all ages and sizes. Dolce & Gabbana never contradicts itself, with the colours of the Mediterranean it paints life and with art it overcomes every obstacle.

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